Chumphu Nye: Home of the Floating Statue

If you want to see something that defies the laws of physics, Chumphu Nye is your destination. While Tiger’s Nest is famous for its architecture, Chumbu Nye is legendary for a single, gravity-defying relic: the floating statue of Dorji Phagmo.

The Legend of the Floating Goddess

The centerpiece of the temple is a life-sized statue of Dorji Phagmo (Vajravarahi). According to local belief, this is not a man-made statue but the goddess herself, who flew from Tibet and manifested in this form. 

  • The Gravity Test: The statue appears to levitate. To prove this to pilgrims, the resident monk will often slide a thin piece of paper or a bank note under the statue’s foot. It passes through completely unobstructed, showing that the statue is not anchored to the ground. 
  • The Second Tsari: This site is considered the “Second Tsari,” linked spiritually to the sacred Tsari Mountain in Tibet. It was discovered by the 9th Je Khenpo (Chief Abbot) of Bhutan, Shakya Rinchen, in the 18th century.

The Hike: A Walk Through Enchanted Forests

The journey to Chumphu Nye is as rewarding as the destination. It is a long but relatively gentle hike that follows a pristine river through deep, ancient forests.

  • The “Zee Go” (Gate to Heaven): The hike begins by passing through a natural rock formation that looks like a giant gateway.
  • Sacred Imprints: Along the trail, look for various Nyedo (sacred rock carvings). You’ll see rocks shaped like Guru Rinpoche’s ritual bell, his throne, and even his ceremonial robes.
  • The Sacred Waterfall: Just 10-15 minutes above the monastery is a powerful waterfall where Guru Rinpoche is said to have bathed. Pilgrims often collect water here for its perceived healing properties.

Travel Essentials

Feature

Details

Location

Doteng, Paro (Approx. 45-minute drive from Paro town to road head)

Hike Duration

7 to 8 hours (round trip). 4 hours up, 3 hours down.

Difficulty

Moderate. Mostly flat until the final 30-minute steep climb to the temple.

Total Distance

Approximately 14 km – 15 km round trip.

Best Season

March–May (rhododendrons in bloom) or Sept–Nov.

Important Tips for Your Visit

  1. Start Early: Aim to begin your hike by 8:00 AM. It is a full-day commitment, and you don’t want to be descending in the dark through the forest.
  2. Pack a Lunch: There are no stalls or shops on the trail. Bring enough water (2 liters) and a packed lunch to enjoy by the river.
  3. Respect the Sanctuary: Photography is strictly forbidden inside the temple. Enjoy the mystery of the floating statue with your eyes, not your lens.
  4. Footwear: While the trail is mostly flat, the final ascent and the area around the waterfall can be slippery. Wear shoes with excellent grip.